Lawns

Autumn is a great time to prepare your lawn before winter makes taking care of it more difficult. Tending to your lawns now will give you a better chance of healthy grass in the springtime.

Sowing a new lawn 
Spray the area with weed killer and rake off dead weeds and rubble. The soil seed needs to be loose enough to work with a rotary hoe, so break up the soil and remove any weed roots that come to the surface.
 
If you are bringing in topsoil, break up the existing soil to prevent creating a hard pan between the two layers, which can cause drainage problems. Firm down the soil with a roller or by walking in small steps to ready the soil for grass seed. Level the ground using a string line as your guide, the ground should slope away from the house, but make sure it is level with existing patios and paths.
 
Sow the seeds in small sections, scattering them widely rather than dropping on the ground. Lightly rake the ground again once the seed is sown, as this will cover most of the seed with topsoil and improve germination. Roll the lawn again with an empty roller to encourage good contact with the soil and water well; consistently and uniformly. 

How to repair bare patches
Rake over the bare patches and remove any weeds or dead grass, as you want to be left with bare soil.  Loosen the soil up to a depth of 10-15cm, spread a layer of topsoil or lawn preparation mix and rake it though the surrounding grass.
Choose grass seed based on your environment and to suit the purpose of the lawn. Scatter your seeds and lightly rake the area so the seed is covered with soil and water in well. Keeping the seed wet while it germinates and establishes itself is very important.
 
Fixing dips and hollows
Cut around the affected area with a spade, make the cut a little wider than the hollow and then carefully lift the existing turf by pushing your spade under to a depth of about 6-8cm. If the affected area is large then you may need to lift in pieces; either way, put the turf to one side.
Fill the hollow up with topsoil and tap it down with the business end of your rake. Always slightly overfill the hollow, as it will settle over time. Place the turf back over the top again and firm it down with your rake, then water it well and consistently until the grass settles.

Choosing lawn seed
When choosing lawn seed, there are many mixes to choose from but they are presented in two general forms:

• Coated: The seed is coated in a fungicide, fertiliser and bird repellent.

• Uncoated: The bare seed will germinate quicker but has no protection.

Grass seeds are blended to suit a particular use:

• Perennial rye grass and clover is recommended where a tough, hardwearing lawn, tolerant of some neglect is required.

• Perennial rye grass, fescue and brown top are recommended for a good quality, hardwearing lawn.

• Fine leaf rye, fescue and brown top are recommended for a top quality lawn.

 
Dealing with weeds
Weeds can be removed by hand but you need to be thorough, as weeds like dock and dandelion will grow back if you don’t get the entire root. The alternative to hand weeding is to use a weed killer and there are plenty on the market for use on the lawn.
The most popular weed killer is a broadleaf spray that will kill all the weeds in your lawn, but not harm the lawn itself. These sprays can also be used as a spot spray for maintenance.

Onehunga weed can be controlled with weed killer in October, when the plant is in flower.

Moss in the lawn  
Sulphate of iron can be used to control moss in your lawn. This simple product has been used effectively and safely for years. Be careful not to spray over your concrete patio, deck or brickwork, as it will stain these surfaces a rusty red colour. Be careful not to walk through the freshly sprayed area, as you can carry the spray on the soles of your shoes that can be transferred on to other surfaces.

Pest in the lawn
Grass grub larvae feed on the roots of your grass, causing stunted growth and yellow or brown patches. The adult feeds on the foliage, creating similar damage – it is a problem you want to be on top of. You can purchase a granular insecticide that will control these grubs, but you could also try watering infrequently but more deeply, in effect flooding the lawn.
 
Another pest, Porina, feeds on the grass, chewing off the leaf at ground level. This grub is grey, can grow up to 6cm in length and should be treated using the same techniques as grass grub.
 
Fertilising your lawn
To achieve a healthy lawn that will survive drought and outgrow weeds, fertilising is the single best thing you can add. Grass needs nitrogen, and lots of it, so lawn fertiliser will have a high nitrogen content. 
New lawns need a fertiliser that is blended especially for new grass. Using a standard fertiliser will risk burning the new foliage.  Always read the instruction on the application rates and water all fertilisers in well to prevent burning of the grass.
 
Fertilisers also contain iron that will stain paving stones, concrete or similar. Caution is advised when spreading fertiliser around those surfaces.
 
Earthworms are good – they aerate your soil and their castings will break down to feed the lawn. They are also great burrowers and this aids water distribution. Worms have a real purpose in your garden.
 
Aerating the lawn
During winter, lawns can become sodden and this can thin out the grass. Aeration techniques can help to improve this. Use a garden fork and mark off the lawn in strips. Push the fork into the lawn to a depth of about 15cm at regular intervals. Leave the lawn to aerate for a week or two, then fertilise.  

Growing grass under trees
This can be a challenge but there are a few simple fixes that you can do to give the grass a better chance.

• Use a seed blended to cope with shade.
• Mow under the tree less frequently and leave a little length.
• Thin the canopy of the tree to let more light through.
• Mulch around the tree.

 
Mowing
The blade setting on your lawn mower should be on high rather than low. This will keep the lawn greener and in times of drought it will help your lawn survive by shading the roots. Cutting your lawn using the low setting risks scalping it and leaving bare patches. In periods of growth, the average lawn should be cut to a height of 2.5cm but in winter a height of 3cm is ideal.

Maintaining your equipment
Give your tools a spring clean and sharpen or replace the blades so that cuts to the grass are clean and sharp. Rinse clippings off you mower when you have finish mowing, as this will reduce the spread of disease.