Paint - Masonry

Last month we looked at painting the exterior of your weatherboard home and with the sun shining, the opportunities to add value to your home are only a couple of coats of paint away.

Weatherboard homes have a unique set of rules, as do masonry homes. Masonry includes brick, fibrolite, concrete and stucco exteriors. All of these finishes will wear over time and will require a re-paint to liven up the look and increase the value of your home.

Preparation
Whether you are working with a new or old concrete surface will make a big difference in your starting point. Taking time to prepare will always pay off in the quality of the finish you achieve. Make sure you have drop sheets ready, masking tape for the windows and methylated spirits to remove acrylic-based paint splatter.

New concreteneeds to be left to cure for at least 28 days before attempting to paint. As it dries, new concrete will push salt and lime to the surface. This is a natural process and you can help by wiping away the build up.

Once the concrete has cured, use a wire brush to clean the surface then rub the surface down to remove any loose sand or debris. Fill any cracks or holes with an exterior filler, sand to a smooth finish and dust off.

Applying an appropriate primer/sealer to the surface will seal it and prevent any further lime leaching.

Old concretehas very little moisture left in it. The first step in this case is to water blast the surface to remove any loose paint, mould and dirt. A reputable paint prep or house wash solution will help with this process; most will contain antifungal agents.

A primer is required for an old concrete surface. All concrete is porous and, depending on age, lime can still leach out. Primer also helps bind old, powdery concrete together, which will reduce the number of top coats required to finish the job.

As with new concrete, you need to ensure all gaps and holes are filled and then sand the surface smooth, once this is complete remove the dust from the surface.

If you are painting over bricks or block work, remember that they are porous and will require a sealer to be applied before painting with a low gloss level paint.

Primers
Most reputable paint manufacturers now produce paints that are self-priming. However, using a specific primer does not add to the cost and will reduce the number of coats of paint you will need to apply. For example, using a primer that also seals for your old concrete wall will not only seal and bind the surface, it will reduce the number of coats of paint required from three to two.

Choosing the correct primer for your project will depend on what surface you are working with. As concrete gets older, the surface becomes more porous and salt deposits that have built up in the concrete can be difficult to remove; this is where a sealer is the perfect primer.

A similar situation may arise if the surface you are working with has recently been plastered. Stopping lime from leaching through waterborne paint surfaces requires a specific primer coating.

Primers are the key to attaining a quality finish and should be applied with a roller before filling of holes and cracks. However, after you have filled these, it is recommended that you spot prime these areas before painting.

Correctly filling cracks and holes can differ depending on their size.

• For cracks under 1mm use a brush-on filler (always brush across the crack).
• For cracks over 1mm use Selleys No More Gaps exterior or similar.
• For larger holes use a joint tape or approved masonry filler.

Use a 35-50 mm broad knife to apply the masonry filler. Using the right solution will enable you to get the professional finish you want.

Application
Equipment for the job:

• Roller tray
• Roller handle
• Lambs wool roller sleeve
• Extension pole for access
• 50-75mm brush

The basics are often overlooked when painting your home. Stirring the paint in the can is the first step, no matter what surface you are painting. Use a flat paddle stick and stir the paint from the bottom of the can up. Keep going until you are sure all the lumps have dissolved.

Always start painting under the eaves; gutters and fascias first. Next, paint the window frames, window sills and finally the down pipes. Any paint that is dripped onto the surface of the wall from these first steps will be covered later.
Use a roller on the flat wall surfaces. After coating about 1m², lightly roll across the area with an almost dry roller to maintain a wet edge and avoid marks where the paint overlaps. For rough surfaces use a PAL No.4 or No.3 roller sleeve. This will help fill any naturally occurring holes in the block work for a smooth finish. Combine this with low-level gloss paint and you can achieve a smooth-looking finish on a previously rough surface. For all other paint finishes and smoother surfaces, use a PAL No.2 or No.1 roller sleeve.

Paint sprayers - the alternative
The Wagner 115 sprayer is great for practical painting, featuring a "hopper" into which you can pour your paint.
Protect areas not to be painted with cardboard, newspaper and masking tape. Make sure it is not windy on the day you spray, to reduce the amount of overspray.

Start in difficult areas, such as the corners, edges or smaller sections. This will help you find your rhythm before moving onto larger sections.

The Wagner Airless 115 has all the manoeuvrability you require and with a 9.5 litres capacity, you'll power through your project.

Spray in smooth back and forth motions, 300mm away from the surface to help achieve a 'Goldilocks' coverage – not too think and not too thin.
 
Painting your house this summer can really add value to your property and provide a real lift for the whole family. Be sure to ask for advice at your local Mitre 10 before starting your project; the staff are well trained and are there to help you through the process. Safety is always key when reaching the higher parts of your home and a good ladder combined with the right extension pole can reduce the risk of falls.

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After